Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Marché

Solid french fare is the culinary theme at Marché (http://www.marche-chicago.com/) although I am still somewhat confused by the decorator's efforts. The restaurant in itself was a very pleasant experience, having been chosen by a dining companion who is a native Chicagoan. What was more exciting, however, was the neighborhood around it, which was simply teeming with inviting dining options. This West Randolph Street locale has not yet been explored and I am very excited to go back and investigate it in more detail. But, I don't want to get ahead of myself so here is what I thought of Marché.

It is a large space, whimsically decorated in darkly vociferous circus paraphernalia. My artistic palate does not match with the decorator's in that I thought it was over-the-top and somewhat vulgar, in a trying-too-hard-to-be-chic kind of way. In any case, I liked the unusual space as well as the option of the outside dining and we started off with a drink at the bar. There was a cocktail menu with a splatter of enticing offerings (not on the cheap side), but we opted for wine. When the rest of our party arrived, we were duly seated and a knowledgeable waiter offered the daily specials. The regular menu seemed to contain all the requisite french bistro items so I started off with my favorite, Escargots and B had the Beet Salad with candied walnuts, herbed goat cheese and mustard vinaigrette. The beet salad met with expectations and the Escargots were excellent: large and succulent, in an unobtrusive oil and herb mix, not in the least dry or gummy, but just as they should be made and are so often not.

For the second course I got the Braised Rabbit Chablis with caramelized onions, carrots, bacon lardons and creamy polenta - a hearty winter meal, but I haven't had rabbit in a while and thought I'd make an exception. And hearty it was with two large pieces of rabbit, well seasoned, but perhaps a touch overcooked, with meat too easily falling off the bone and with a few unpleasant bone splinters that the chef could have avoided. The polenta was very good, not too thick and not too watery and the lardons were tasty. B had the special of the day, two very well cooked pieces of filet mignon, which B enjoyed, but I did not find overly remarkable. The portions of both dishes, but especially of the rabbit, were rather large which fact sadly deprived me of the capacity for dessert.

Overall, this was quite a pleasant traditional french bistro experience and I will most likely go back, but not until after I try the other restaurants in that West Loop area.

Au revoir.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Lincoln Square

Lincoln Square is a lovely neighborhood in Chicago, where you can find enticing bars, cafes, restaurants and even an inviting book store all in the span of just a few blocks. It is also a not over-the-top kind of neighborhood where the stores and the shops are for show rather than function. In short, it is a neighborhood that I liked from the first and that I have since returned to several times.

While there, I have so far tried two restaurants. The first was Barba Yianni Grecian Taverna (http://chicago.menupages.com/restaurantdetails.asp?areaid=0&restaurantid=11350&neighborhoodid=0&cuisineid=29). This place was picked not for its food, but for the fact that on Sunday and Wednesday nights it holds Argentine Tango milongas. If you are not interested in Argentine Tango, I implore you to avoid this restaurant as you will be disappointed. The food is bland, often tasteless, uninspiring and overwhelming in quantity. The only tasty item on the menu, most likely not produced in the restaurant, is Saganaki, the greek cheese, which comes flaming to your table in all its salty, chewey, grilled glory. The only other good thing I noticed about this place, aside from its location in the middle of lovely Lincoln Square, is the service. The few times that I've been to the restaurant, the waitresses were friendly, obliging and mostly efficient. All in all, I am sure there are multiple other places in Chicago where better greek food can be found, but, unfortunately, there are almost no better places for Tango.

The second restaurant that I'd like to mention here and that is only a couple of blocks away from Barba Yianni is Fiddlehead Cafe (http://www.fiddleheadcafe.com/). While close to Barba Yianni in proximity, Fiddlehead is miles away in atmosphere and cuisine. Its atmosphere is as lovely as the neighborhood: warm, inviting, unpretentious, cozy, but not boring. It has an oddly shaped, elevated dining room that opens onto the street and allows for excellent people watching through the large windows that are open in the warmer weather and decorated by large hanging potted plants. I think the design and the feel of this restaurant has so far been the best example of unpretentious attractiveness that I've seen in Chicago.

Unfortunately, I cannot give the same level of praise to the food. While not disappointing, it seems to be overreaching. The menu promises intricate combinations and high level of execution, but the results do not quite deliver. Don't get me wrong, none of the dishes I tried at Fiddlehead were bad. It's just that they weren't quite what they could have been or what the menu and, frankly, the prices suggested they would be.

I started with Roasted Beet & Strawberry Salad with field greens, candied pecans, shaved fennel, pecorino and creamy balsamic reduction. The combination of the beets and the strawberries was truly refreshing and unusual. The different types of sweetness coming from each of those ingredients were well balanced by the slight bitterness of the greens and the salty rustic feel of pecorino. The crunch of the pecans was delightful, but the greens looked tired and I did not get the requisite kick from the fennel, which seemed as if it had lost its flavor from being out for too long.

The next dish I tried was a ceviche of shrimp, squid and scallops, which was the special of the day. It came in the form of very finely chopped ingredients piled into four pieces of tortilla chips. I thought this was the tastiest dish of the meal. The ceviche was juicy with just the right amount of citrus and spices. It played well with the crunchy tortilla chips and I thought the presentation was, again, pleasantly unusual and creative.

For my main course, I chose Steamed Mussels with chorizo, mushrooms, spinach and wild rice in a saffron broth. These were OK, but nothing special. The mushrooms were bitter, the mussels were average and the broth was a bit salty. My companion picked Duck Club, Duck Confit, Smoked Duck Breast sandwich with arugula, marinated goat cheese, strawberry-rosemary jam and fries. This was a bit of a disappointment. I am usually very fond of the duck in almost all its forms, but this sandwich was in my opinion incongruent. While the arugula gave a good bitter aftertaste to the earthiness of the duck, the rest of the ingredients seemed to me out of place. The strawberry-rosemary jam was a mistake. Particularly, the strawberry part of it. It was a puzzling, but not a welcome addition to the taste combination. The marinated goat cheese, should have been omitted along with the strawberries and the fries were fleshy and soggy. I was also puzzled by the need of a third layer of toast in the middle of the sandwich. It made the sandwich taller and, thus, more difficult to consume and really detracted from one's ability to concentrate on the duck. I think the chef got carried away by the design and, well.... sometimes, experiments like that just don't work out for the best.

Generally speaking, I had a very pleasant time at Fiddlehead and will certainly go back to try their other offerings, as well as make a note of this place for a cozy outing with friends. And did I mention that their wine list was very, and I mean, very extensive? I'd be curious to dig into that and the dessert on my next visit.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Cafe Iberico

Okay is the best I can say for Cafe Iberico (http://www.cafeiberico.com/menu.html) where B and I and a couple of friends shared a few tapas last night. Beforehand, I dutifully did my research and the ever gracious members of the LTHForum.com dutifully provided me with a few options (http://lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.phpf=14&t=14089&p=215508&hilit=iberico#p215508) one of which was Cafe Iberico.

The place does not take reservations, but the wait for a table around 8pm on a Wednesday was not bad - 10 minutes. We were seated in the middle of a rambunctious but barely decorated dining room at a smallish table. The room was full and the decibel level was high enough for us to have to practically shout to each other to be heard. No biggie - I'm no stranger to these kinds of conditions, although I always do appreciate when the restaurant takes the trouble to provide a bit of atmosphere and reduce the noise level by covering the walls with fabric or other sound reducing material.

We got a pitcher of red sangria, which I thought was good and realized towards the end of the evening was also quite potent. The menu had pictures of the dishes next to the descriptions, which is never a sign of a classy joint, not that this place had any pretensions to class. The list of dishes wasn't too extensive so we didn't take long to choose 7 small plates to share. I'll describe one at a time:

1. ENSALADA DE PIMIENTOS ASADOS $4.95
Three-color fire roasted peppers with olive oil and toasted bread.

The agreement at the table was that the roasted peppers were good, albeit a bit oily, but the bread wasn't.

2. TERNERA ASADA $5.95
Roasted veal served cold with raspberry vinaigrette.

I liked the veal. It was tender, thinly cut and not dry. However, I didn't taste any raspberry vinaigrette, only a citrusy reduction of some sort. Also, the veal was sprinkled with shavings of what looked to be mozzarella, which did not add anything to the dish.

3. PATATAS BRAVAS $4.95
Spicy potatoes with special tomato sauce.

Bitter disappointment. I was very much craving these and all I got was something I can't even describe as patatas bravas. The potatoes were soggy, mushy, covered with a pasty, completely spiceless tomato sauce and looked like they were just pulled out of a microwave after re-heating attempt number 5. A shame. Also, we initially ordered 2 portions of these for the table, but the waiter came back and told us that he eliminated one of the orders because there was a back-up in the kitchen. I thought that was pretty cheeky of the guy, but in the end I was happy we weren't stuck with 2 orders.

4. QUESO DE CABRA $6.95
Baked goat cheese with fresh tomato basil sauce.

This I thought was good, but the rest of our table didn't have much enthusiasm for it. It was basically a round of soft backed goat cheese surrounded by tomato sauce. Very down-to-earth but satisfying dish. Too bland for some perhaps, but I like bland on occasion.

5. CALAMARES A LA PLANCHA $5.95
Grilled squid with olive oil, garlic and lemon juice.

I liked this dish as well and so did my friends. Nothing spectacular about it, but the squid was not over-cooked, had a good amount of that smokiness from the grilling and was well seasoned. I wished there was a bit more of the squid and a bit less of the oil.

6. PULPO A LA PLANCHA $7.95
Grilled octopus with potatoes and olive oil.

This in my opinion was the winner of the evening. The octopus had great chewy texture and miniature fries were a good accompaniment.

7. PINCHO DE POLLO $4.95
Chicken brochette with caramelized onions and rice.

My friends ordered this dish. I did not try it since they said it was not good and I was already full.

I wasn't too full for desert though. We ordered:

1. FILLOA DE HELADO Y CREMA $ 3.95
Stuffed crepe with ice cream topped with whipped cream and strawberry sauce.

This dish is certainly for sharing. I would think it could easily satisfy 3 people. And satisfy it did, with yummy vanilla ice cream dripping out of a tasty crepe and covered with whipped cream. Who can resist?

2. CRÉMA CATALANA $ 3.95
Catalonian style cream custard covered with hard caramel.

This is essentially a Crème Brûlée, which last night was infused with white chocolate. It was very nice I thought.

Overall, Cafe Iberico was by far not all that I hoped for, but it wasn't a revolting or frustrating experience. I think it would gain greatly by improvement in the atmosphere. Is it worth a trip back? Frankly, not any time soon.

Monday, September 8, 2008

312 vs. 212

This weekend was a bit of a disappointment as far as food was concerned, but as goes the common saying, where one door closes another opens. B and I decided to go for a long walk. We armed ourselves with the GNR list (http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=20908&p=215187&hilit=gnr+list#p215187), a detailed map of Chicago and the Chicago Zagat (just in case) figuring that when we get hungry, we'll just look up a recommendation nearest to our location and try a new Chicago restaurant. Alas, it was not to be and such foolish plan shall never be attempted again.

Our hunger creeped up on us in the neighborhood of DePaul University (Lincoln Park). We stopped to examine the GNR List and decided on Sweets and Savories (http://www.sweetsandsavorieschicago.com/) as plan A and on Luna Caprese (http://www.lunacaprese.com/) as plan B. Well, as I said, it was not to be. Apparently, places in that neighborhood do not open before 5pm on Saturdays. Both of these restaurants as well as Tsuki, which I reviewed in one of my previous posts and which was plan C, were closed. There were no other GNR or Zagat restaurants in close vicinity nor were we in the mood to search any further. We were in the middle of a world-class city and doomed to starvation! Until.... B, desperate, exhausted and exasperated suggested a pub across the street. To avoid a bloodbath, I complied.

McDunna's (http://mcdunnas.com/) it was. While impatiently waiting for the requisite burger and fries it occurred to me that McDunna's could have been my name if I were Irish. You think of the craziest things when you're hungy! In any case, before we got the food we ordered some beer. Pub = beer: it is a must. First silly me asked for Yuengling (http://www.yuengling.com/) or Brooklyn Lager (http://www.brooklynbrewery.com/beer/). The bartender made fun of me and said they don't have east coast beers in the Midwest. Duh! He suggested a local specialty instead, a 312, made apparently, right in the city of Chicago (http://www.gooseisland.com/AgePage.asp?URLPage=/index.asp). I like to try new things, beer not excluding, and this time I was not disappointed. It was light, refreshing, lemony, crispy. A delightful beer all around. The burger (Shroomer) was not bad either, but the beer was a true find of the day and I can't wait to try the other varieties from the same brewery. So exciting! Beer is the new wine, you know.

So the moral of the story is, don't go bumming around in Chicago hoping to find a good restaurant nearby - plan ahead! I know it takes all the fun out of spontaneous discoveries, but that's just what you have to do in this city. On the other hand, occasionally you may bum your way into a find like 312. Funny it being only one digit away from the 212. Perhaps we're not that different after all.

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Boka Not So Loca

Today's topic is Boka (http://www.bokachicago.com/). A friend suggested this restaurant for a Friday night outing and after googling it and seeing mostly positive reviews on the LTH Forum http://lthforum.com/bb/index.php - I figured why not? I was up for something more upscale than my last try, Spoon Thai. And I was not disappointed in the decor - nothing stunning, but certainly attractive. We got a table by the window and that is something I always welcome as I do like to people watch. Again I was pleasantly surprised by the large spaces between the tables; I am still trying to get used to the idea of all this available space after the crampish style of NYC.

Our waiter was amiable, but was a bit taken aback I think by the calmness of our demeanor. I think he expected more excitement. I've noticed waiters around here usually do. It must be a Chicago thing. Perhaps people here are friendlier, livelier, less subdued than NYers?

But on to the food. All dishes were beautifully presented, which for me is an important aesthetic of the meal. My eyes need to like what they see before the taste buds take over. The first appetizer, and I think the best dish of the meal, was the wild mushroom risotto with two simply excellent pieces of chicken. They had a delicious earthiness to them, were soft, a little chewy, with truffle-like sauce making me wish there were more of them on the plate. The restaurant's on-line menu doesn't have this dish for some reason. If this is seasonal (although I don't know why it would be considering lack of seasonal ingredients), the chef should certainly make it a permanent highlight. I, for one, would love to have it as an entree.

Our other appetizer was not great. We had the Baby Octopus with celery, purple peruvian potato, barbecued eel, granny smith apple, mussels and yogurt horseradish creme. The octopus was undercooked, rubbery and with a fishy aftertaste, but the mussels were quite pleasant. I don't remember the barbecued eel. If it was there, it was not noticeable. B says he tasted something porkish.

For the entree I had the Angus Strip Loin and Short Ribs. Angus Strip Loin not so great, but the Ribs were excellent. They were off the bone, in a small mound, juicy and stringy but in a good way. I got the same sort of an earthy satisfaction from them as I did from the chicken in the risotto. And again I wished there had been more of them on the plate. Alas, it was not to be. B and our friend both ordered the grilled Trout. I tried it, but didn't think it was anything special. A bit of a blah really and certainly not worth the price ($28). Overall, the restaurant is a bit pricey with appetizers running somewhere in the $12 to $16 range and the entrees in the $28 to $36 range. I would have expected more of a bang from the dishes for those prices. The only one I thought was really worth the price was the risotto/chicken dish.

Oh and B just reminded me that we had dessert, which fact completely skipped my mind - that's how good and memorable it was. We chose the restaurant's version of beignettes, which came in the form of 3 small, deep fried, brown, almost tasteless doughnuts. There was a sauce, but frankly, I can't remember what it was.

So there it is - Boka. I'm looking forward to my further explorations of Chicago's best and yummiest.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

the Good, the Bad and the Ugly: Part IV

The Ugly.

Thai food. I love it. In NYC my favorite Thai restaurant is Land (http://www.landthaikitchen.com/landEast.html). I prefer the Upper East Side location because it is slightly bigger, meaning you can actually get a table there on occasion, and because I think it is better decorated. What I like about the place is the food of course, but I also like the serene and yet enticing atmosphere, the inventive and aesthetically pleasing ways the food is served, the well chosen wine selection, the waiters who actually know which wine goes better with which dish and the $8 two-course lunch menu. Almost everything I tried there is good, but my favorites are Shrimp Parcels, Satay Sampler, Pungent Beef Salad, Pan Seared Duck Breast, all of the curries and black sesame ice cream.

I've never been to Thailand so I cannot tell whether the Land dishes are "authentic." Judging by other Thai food I tried in New York, however, I would say Land's offerings are a notch fancier, perhaps a bit more Americanized, which suits me just fine.

Here in Chicago, I am told, the selection of Thai cuisine is excellent. Many claim it is better than what NYC has to offer. I cannot argue with that since I've only been to one Thai restaurant in Chicago so far. On a recommendation from at least 10 locals B and I went to Spoon Thai (http://www.spoonthai.com/) on a Tuesday night.

The place was not crowded at all. Our waiter was pleasant. The menu was extensive. We ordered Tom Yum soup, Satay Chicken, Thai Pepper Steak and Massaman Curry with chicken. We like all of our dishes very well, except maybe for the Chicken Satay, which was a bit dry. The Tom Yum soup was flavorful, not overwhelmingly spicy with well cooked shrimp. The pepper steak had thinly sliced pieces of meat, well cooked, with good sauce that was not slimy or gooey. The massaman curry was also tasty, even though the potatoes were a little bland and overall it was a bit sweeter than I am used to. What I also liked about the place is that it was almost ridiculously cheap - always a welcome plus.

The one discouraging feature is that the restaurant was ugly, it looked more like a college cafeteria than an inviting venue for a dinner. I would have loved this place if I were a college kid, but as an adult, I actually prefer something a tad more upscale.

Overall, B and appreciated the food. If I had encountered this level of culinary competence in my first few days in this city, I probably would not have started this blog.

For those of you who have a chance to try both Spoon Thai and Land, here is a point by point comparison (on a 1 to 10 scale with 10 being the highest), a la Iron Chef:

Land/ Spoon Thai
Decor: 7/ 2
Service: 7/ 5
Food Presentation: 8/ 2
Tom Yum soup: 6/ 8
Satay: 8/ 5
Pepper Steak: (not offered, but skirt steak) 6/ 9
Massaman Curry: 8/ 7
Price: 5/ 10
Total: 55/ 48