Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Marché

Solid french fare is the culinary theme at Marché (http://www.marche-chicago.com/) although I am still somewhat confused by the decorator's efforts. The restaurant in itself was a very pleasant experience, having been chosen by a dining companion who is a native Chicagoan. What was more exciting, however, was the neighborhood around it, which was simply teeming with inviting dining options. This West Randolph Street locale has not yet been explored and I am very excited to go back and investigate it in more detail. But, I don't want to get ahead of myself so here is what I thought of Marché.

It is a large space, whimsically decorated in darkly vociferous circus paraphernalia. My artistic palate does not match with the decorator's in that I thought it was over-the-top and somewhat vulgar, in a trying-too-hard-to-be-chic kind of way. In any case, I liked the unusual space as well as the option of the outside dining and we started off with a drink at the bar. There was a cocktail menu with a splatter of enticing offerings (not on the cheap side), but we opted for wine. When the rest of our party arrived, we were duly seated and a knowledgeable waiter offered the daily specials. The regular menu seemed to contain all the requisite french bistro items so I started off with my favorite, Escargots and B had the Beet Salad with candied walnuts, herbed goat cheese and mustard vinaigrette. The beet salad met with expectations and the Escargots were excellent: large and succulent, in an unobtrusive oil and herb mix, not in the least dry or gummy, but just as they should be made and are so often not.

For the second course I got the Braised Rabbit Chablis with caramelized onions, carrots, bacon lardons and creamy polenta - a hearty winter meal, but I haven't had rabbit in a while and thought I'd make an exception. And hearty it was with two large pieces of rabbit, well seasoned, but perhaps a touch overcooked, with meat too easily falling off the bone and with a few unpleasant bone splinters that the chef could have avoided. The polenta was very good, not too thick and not too watery and the lardons were tasty. B had the special of the day, two very well cooked pieces of filet mignon, which B enjoyed, but I did not find overly remarkable. The portions of both dishes, but especially of the rabbit, were rather large which fact sadly deprived me of the capacity for dessert.

Overall, this was quite a pleasant traditional french bistro experience and I will most likely go back, but not until after I try the other restaurants in that West Loop area.

Au revoir.

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