Topolobampo

If you want spectacular ceviche, Topolobampo (http://www.rickbayless.com/restaurants/topolobampo.html) is the place to go. This is the second (first being Blackbird) high class restaurant that I've been to in Chicago where the food and not only the price was high class. Overall, I was impressed with the food, but in this economy I'll have to think twice before going back anytime soon.

For starters, guacamole was good. The most memorable dish was the Ceviche Yucateco (steamed organic shrimp and calamari tossed with lime, orange, habanero, avocado, jcama and cilantro) which was one of the best ceviches I've ever had. It combined the freshest possible ingredients with just the right combination of tangy seasoning. Excellent.

I also had a cream of something soup, of which the remaining impression was that it was delicately balanced. For my main course, I had a pleasingly inventive version of black cod which came in banana leaves with pan juices, habanero-pickled red onions, white beans and tangy guero chile "jellies." I tried B's crispy-skin, pan-roasted Gunthorp duck breast in red peanut mole (ancho chiles, sweet spices, red wine), which came with braised black lentils with duck "carnitas," pea tendril salad and crunchy duck chicharron, and was not impressed with it. The flavors were unusual, but not immediately appealing and the duck was quite raw, which is not my personal preference, but B said he liked it. The deserts were, as usual, quite good despite being a bit too sweet and boasted the best panna cotta I've had in Chicago.

Overall, the food was in many ways surprising, interesting and quite delicious. The restaurant with its warm-toned, Mexican-inspired decor and excellent service was also quite appealing. Nor did I dislike the fact that Rick Bayless walked by our table at least 5 times. What I wasn't too keen on were the prices with the duck dish at $38 and the black cod at $37. So while I certainly do not regret my first visit to Topolobampo, I doubt I'll venture back there before the economy bumps back to the top.